Drains CCTV Inspection Emerson Park

We have skilled – trades service engineers like plumbers, emergency plumbing engineers who can carry out drain tests, leak test, plumbing inspection and test for you. If you are looking to sell your property you may have to consider getting “drain test” done

What is a drains test?

A drains test is a test performed to determine the condition of the storm and foul (sewer) pipes.

Why get a drains test?

Peoples reasons vary; house buyers do not want to buy someone else’s problems. A drain test may highlight problems such as blocked pipes and leakages in the pipes. Also a drains test may find the cause of any offending smells and source the cause of any cracking in houses. Furthermore new houses are not exempt from drain problems. Independent drain testing retrieved 51 drain rods from a newly built house. The house buyers stated that the drains had been blocking up consistently from the day it was purchased. See gallery.

How to Test Drain Pipes

A drain pipe test ensures the pipe is sufficiently watertight. This prevents the pipe from leaking its contents into the surrounding soil and potentially overloading or contaminating the local water table. When laying new pipes, it is essential to test them before the trenches in which they are laid are back-filled with soil, as this saves you a lot of time and effort in digging them back up again should they fail.

- Clean the end of the pipe that will be tested to remove any dirt or other debris that could affect getting an air tight seal. Place the bung stopper in the end of the pipe. Turn the wing nut on the stopper until it cannot turn any more, to expand the stopper and create an air tight seal. Seal off any branches on the pipe with more bungs.

- Connect the hand pump to the hose via the T-piece connector. Connect one end of the hose to the manometer. Fix the hose nipple in place on the stopper in the pipe, to allow the hose to be attached. Connect the free end of the hose to the hose nipple.

- Squeeze the hand pump to increase the air pressure in the pipe until the level on the manometer reads between 5 and 6 inches. Close the control valve on the hand pump. Let the pipe stand for 10 minutes to level off temperature and pressure in the system.

- Open the control valve and allow the pressure to drop so the manometer reads 3.93 inches. Close the control valve again and leave the pipe for five minutes. If after this time the pressure in the pipe has not dropped below 2.95 inches, the pipe is sealed correctly. If the pipe fails this air test, run a water pressure test to check its seals again.

Water Test

- Seal off all branches of the pipe with bung stoppers. Seal off the lower, or downstream, end of the pipe to be tested with another bung stopper, as if creating an airtight seal. Connect the 90 degree pipe bend to the other end of the pipe, which is the upstream end.

- Connect the 5-foot length of pipe to this bend to create a vertical pipe configuration. Either fasten this vertical section to your support struts with the rope, or brace it between two supports. The idea is to prevent the pipe falling over under its own weight when water is added.

- Fill the pipe with water and leave to stand for two hours to allow time for any trapped air to bubble out of the system. Inspect the level of water in the vertical pipe and ensure it is to a depth of 4.92 feet. Leave for 30 minutes, topping up the water as required to maintain a level of 4.92 feet.

- Record the total amount of water added each time the pipe needs topping-up. Sum up these values. If the total is less than 0.88 pints per 3.28 feet of pipe, not including the 90 degree bend or the vertical pipe, the pipe has passed the water test. If it exceeds this amount, the pipe is not watertight and the seals between each section of the pipe should be tested for integrity.

If a pipe passes the air test, it will be watertight as well as airtight. Water, being a larger molecule, requires larger gaps to pass through than air, so anything airtight is automatically able to hold water. It is therefore quicker and easier to run the air test to check each section of a pipe rather than using the water test each time. Only run the water test when the pipe fails an air test. 


 

Basic Tips – How to Repair Blocked Drain

 

- Do not empty any more water into the drains.

 

- Check the manhole outside your property. It may be heavy to lift so take care. If it is clear then the blockage must be between your property and here. If it is full, then the blockage is further along, so check the next manhole. If it is a private drain or sewer then it is the householders responsibility to clear it but if your house is in a row of houses then the problem could be shared with several householders who add waste up to the point of the blockage.

 

- Once located, first get your hose and poke it into the end of the drain from the empty manhole and turn the water on full to see if the water pressure will shift the blockage. If this doesn’t work then try to push the hose down the drain from the full manhole. Make sure you feed the hose down well before switching on the water so that the content doesn’t get sprayed back at you.

 

- If the DIY hose method does not work, then you can use a set of drain rods, which you can hire from a DIY shop. These can be screwed together and pushed through the drain to clear any blockage. Make sure you turn the rods in a clockwise direction as you push them, this will stop them loosening or a joint undoing whilst underground. Once the blockage is cleared it is worth flushing the drains through, perhaps with hot soapy water as often, fat can block drains and this will help break it up and disperse it completely.

 

- If you are unable to clear the drains yourself, then you should hire drain clearers. You will find them listed in the yellow pages.

You can help keep your drainage system and the environment clean by disposing of your waste oil, fat and grease, simply and safely in the Fat Trap. This product provides a consumer friendly alternative to pouring such waste down the sink. The Fat Trap holds 500ml, sits neatly beside the cooker and will take the waste fat, grease and oil from every day cooking, frying and roasting. For more information visit the Less Mess Ltd website.

 

N.B - It is really important that you are aware who is responsible for the drain/sewer at your property. It is a common misconception that councils and Water Utility Companies are responsible for maintaining all drains but this is not always the case.

In general, for houses which were built before 1st October 1937 all pipework serving more than one property will normally be a public sewer maintained by the local Water Utility Company.

For houses built after 1st October 1937 all pipework serving more than one property will be a private sewer until it joins the public sewer (normally under the road and can be quite a distance away) and should be maintained by all the house owners using it and any repairs costs should be shared equally.

The main sewer in the road will normally be a public sewer whenever it was constructed.

Being aware of who is responsible will help prevent any disputes in the event of a blocked or damaged drain/sewer at your property. If you are not sure, then your local council’s Technical Services Department should be able to help you determine responsibility for the drainage system.

 

Basic Tips – How to Repair Blocked Toilet

 

If your toilet is blocked with paper and is not flushing it away properly, then it should usually be able to be cleared with a large rubber plunger.

 

Emergency Domestic & Commercial Emergency Drainage Repairs - 24HR Commercial CCTV Drain Jetting Machine Services to Unblock Drainage

 

Fit the plunger over the outlet at the bottom of the toilet pan and thrust it down a few times. This should clear the blockage. Once cleared, flush the soil pipe through with a bucket of water. If you are unable to clear the blockage yourself, then call out a plumber.

 

 

24HRS CCTV drain jetting services

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